How to Plan a Staged Cicada Build for Harley Touring

How to Plan a Staged Cicada Build (Harley Touring Audio, Step by Step)

Motorcycle audio doesn't have to happen all at once.

Some riders want the full system on day one. Others prefer to build in stages — upgrading over time as budget allows, as riding style evolves, or as they learn what they actually want from the system.

Cicada's speaker and amplifier range is designed to scale. You can start simple and add capability without ripping out what you've already installed. This guide shows you how.

Let's make it LOUD, OK?

Who This Guide Is For

This guide is for Harley Touring riders who:

• Ride Street Glides, Road Glides, Ultras, or similar touring platforms
• Want audio that stays clear at highway speed
• Plan to upgrade over time, not necessarily all at once
• Want loud and listenable sound
• Don't want to redo wiring or replace gear later

If that's you, read on.

Table of Contents

• Why staged builds make sense
• The four stages (overview)
• Stage 1: Front fairing speakers + amplifier
• Stage 2: Saddlebag lid speakers
• Stage 3: DSP tuning and system refinement
• Stage 4: Subwoofer
• Staged build examples by riding style
• Investment guide
• Upgrade paths: what to plan for
• Common mistakes to avoid

Why Staged Builds Make Sense

Not everyone needs (or wants) a six-speaker, DSP-tuned, lithium-powered system from the start.

Staged builds let you:

• Spread the cost — get riding with good sound now, upgrade later.
• Learn what you actually need — highway riding reveals what's missing faster than any spec sheet.
• Avoid overbuilding — some riders discover Stage 2 is plenty; others realise they want Stage 4.
• Keep the bike rideable — smaller installs mean less downtime.

The key is choosing components at each stage that don't become bottlenecks later.

The Four Stages (Overview)

You can stop at any stage. Each one delivers a genuine improvement over the last.

Note for coaxial builds (CX/CXX): If you're running smooth dome-tweeter speakers and DSP isn't critical to your system, you may prefer adding a subwoofer before DSP. For horn builds (CH/CHX), DSP should come first — it solves the bigger problem.

Stage 1: Front Fairing Speakers + Amplifier

Goal: Replace the weak link (stock speakers and head unit power) with real output and clarity.

This is where most Harley audio builds should start. The fairing speakers are your primary listening position — they point at your ears, and they fight the most wind noise. Fix this first.

Speaker choice (by riding style)

For detailed speaker comparisons, see our Cicada Speakers Guide.

Amplifier choice

For detailed amplifier specifications, see our Cicada Amplifiers Guide.

⚠️ Planning Ahead Matters

If CHX speakers are even a possibility, start with the FLX1400.4.

Upgrading speakers later is easy — they unbolt and swap. Upgrading amplifiers means re-running power wire, possibly upgrading fusing, and reinstalling mounting hardware.

The FLX700.4 is an excellent amp for CX, CXX, and CH builds. But if you suspect you'll want CHX-level output down the track, buying the FLX1400.4 now saves time, money, and frustration later.

Downsizing power is impossible. Plan for where you're going, not just where you're starting.

What Stage 1 delivers

• Clear vocals at highway speed
• Actual volume control (not just "less distortion")
• A foundation that supports future expansion

Stage 1 wiring note

If you're planning to go beyond Stage 1, run 4 AWG power wire from the battery now — even if your Stage 1 amp doesn't require it. It's far easier to pull wire once than to redo it later when you add a second amp or upgrade.

Stage 2: Saddlebag Lid Speakers

Goal: Expand the sound stage, add output, and give rear passengers something to hear.

Lid speakers (typically 6×9) add significant volume and presence. They also fill in the "behind you" sound that fairing speakers can't reach.

Speaker choice

Amplifier adjustment

Your Stage 1 4-channel amp likely has two spare channels — that's intentional.

• FLX700.4 → Channels 3+4 drive the lids
• FLX1000.4 → Same, with more headroom
• FLX1400.4 → Same, for CHX-level lid speakers

If you started with a 2-channel amp or a DSP amp with only two amplified outputs, Stage 2 is where you add a second amp or upgrade.

What Stage 2 delivers

• Noticeably bigger sound — music "surrounds" instead of "points"
• More total system output (four speakers, not two)
• Rear passenger can actually hear the system

Stage 3: DSP Tuning and System Refinement

Goal: Make a loud system sound right — smooth, balanced, and easy to listen to at any volume.

DSP (Digital Signal Processing) isn't mandatory for every build. But for horn systems (CH/CHX), it's the difference between "loud" and "good". Adding DSP before a subwoofer means you solve the harshness and fatigue issues first — and when you do add the sub later, proper crossover control is already in place.

Simple Rule: When Do You Need DSP?

If your system uses horn speakers and sounds harsh or fatiguing, DSP isn't a luxury — it's the fix.

What DSP fixes

• Crossover precision — set exact handoff points between speakers (and subs, when you add them)
• EQ and horn smoothing — tame harshness in horn systems
• Time alignment — make speakers at different distances sound coherent
• Level matching — balance front and rear so nothing overpowers
• Protection — high-pass filters protect speakers from damaging frequencies

DSP options

What Stage 3 delivers

• A system that sounds refined, not harsh
• Fatigue-free listening at high volume
• The ability to tune for your helmet, your seating position, your music
• Proper crossover foundation ready for sub integration

Stage 4: Subwoofer

Goal: Add the low-end weight that completes the system.

Horn speakers prioritise midrange projection — that's their job. But music needs bass to feel complete. A subwoofer restores warmth, punch, and the "chest hit" that makes a system feel alive.

With DSP already in place from Stage 3, sub integration is straightforward: you've got precise low-pass control, level matching, and phase adjustment ready to go.

Subwoofer options

Cicada's CMB Pro Mid-Bass series is designed for saddlebag environments — compact, powerful, and built for motorcycle use.

Amplifier choice

Crossover note

With DSP from Stage 3, you have full control over crossover points:

• High-pass filter on fairing/lid speakers (keep sub-bass out of them)
• Low-pass filter on the subwoofer (keep vocals out of it)
• Phase and delay adjustment to align the sub with your front stage

If you skipped Stage 3 (common on coaxial builds), the mono amp's onboard crossover handles basic filtering — functional, but less precise.

What Stage 4 delivers

• Music feels "whole" — not just loud, but full
• Kick drums, bass lines, and low vocals have weight
• The system sounds like a complete system, not just a collection of speakers

Staged Build Examples by Riding Style

Example 1: Touring Rider (Comfort-Focused)

Outcome: Smooth, full-range system that's easy to live with on long rides.

Note: For coaxial builds like this, many riders add the sub (Stage 4) before DSP (Stage 3), or skip DSP entirely.

Example 2: Highway Rider (Projection-Focused)

Outcome: Loud, clear vocals with tuned response, then bass added last for full-range completion.

Example 3: High-Output Bagger (Volume-Focused)

Electrical note: This build typically requires a lithium battery upgrade and 2 AWG power wiring to support both amplifiers. Plan for proper fusing throughout.

Outcome: "Turn heads" volume with DSP tuning to make it listenable, then serious sub-bass authority added last.

Example 4: Full Show Build (No Compromises)

Electrical note: This build requires a lithium battery upgrade, 4 AWG (minimum) throughout, 2 AWG for the sub amp, and proper fusing.

Outcome: Concert-level output, properly staged and tuned, with sub-bass foundation completing the system.

Investment Guide

Every build is different. Here's what typical staged builds cost in components (excluding installation labour).

Stage 1 — Fairing Speakers + Amplifier

Stage 1 + 2 — Add Lid Speakers

Stage 1 + 2 + 3 — Add DSP

Full Four-Stage Builds

Pre-Built Kits (Better Value)

For 2014–2023 models, Cicada offers complete kits that bundle speakers, amps, and wiring at a discount:

These kits save $150–$300 versus buying components separately and include matched wiring. 

Build Scope Checklist (What Changes the Complexity)

Instead of quoting labour in a guide like this, it’s more accurate to plan your build scope — because the real effort isn’t “Stage 1 vs Stage 2”. It’s the details: wiring gauge, battery strategy, number of amps, and how far you want to take the system.

Use this checklist to plan ahead and avoid rework:

• How many amplifiers total? (One 4-channel vs 4-channel + mono, or multi-amp show builds)
• Power wiring plan: 4 AWG once, or multiple runs / distribution blocks / dual 2 AWG for high output
• Battery and charging: stock electrical, or lithium + charging strategy for big mono amps
• Fuse strategy: main battery fuse, distribution fusing, and correct sizing per amp run
• DSP approach: DSP amp vs standalone DSP (and where it will physically mount)
• Signal routing: clean integration now vs “temporary” wiring you’ll replace later
• Space planning: leave room for a sub enclosure, amp rack, and service access
• Future-proofing: if Stage 4 is likely, plan wiring and mounting for it at Stage 1

Tip: If you think you’ll end up with DSP + sub, plan your wiring and mounting like it’s already happening — even if you’re only buying Stage 1 gear today.

Want a Build Plan Mapped to Your Bike?

If you tell us your bike, riding style, and what “finished” looks like (Stage 2, Stage 3, or full Stage 4), we’ll map the cleanest upgrade path and confirm what extra parts are actually required (power kits, fusing, battery, distribution, harnessing, and mounting).

Upgrade Paths: What to Plan For

If you're starting at Stage 1 but suspect you'll go further, here's what to think about now:

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Starting with the wrong amp size

Buying the FLX700.4 when you know you want CHX speakers means replacing it later. If you're planning a loud build, start with the FLX1400.4.

Ignoring electrical requirements

The FLX2000.4 and FLX2500.1 require lithium batteries. Don't buy them hoping stock electrical will "probably be fine." It won't.

Adding a sub before DSP on horn builds

If your CHX system sounds harsh, a subwoofer won't fix it — it just adds bass to a fatiguing system. DSP solves the harshness first; then the sub completes the sound.

Skipping DSP on high-output builds

Horn speakers are designed for projection, not smooth response. DSP isn't optional on these systems — it's what makes them listenable.

Adding DSP when you don't need it

If you're running a simple CX coaxial system with clean power and you're happy with the sound, DSP probably isn't necessary. Save the money for a sub or better speakers.

Final Thoughts

Staged builds let you get on the road with real audio improvements now — without committing to a full system you might not need.

Start with Stage 1 that matches your riding style. Add Stage 2 when you want more. Add Stage 3 when you want the system to sound refined. Add Stage 4 when you want the bass to complete it.

Every stage delivers a genuine upgrade. And if you plan the wiring and amplifier choices correctly, nothing gets thrown away along the way.

Need help planning your staged Cicada build?

Tell us your bike, your riding style, and where you want to end up. Motorcycle Audio Australia will map the path — whether that's Stage 1 today or all four stages from the start.

Let's make it LOUD, OK?